Doku über Reparatur und Aufbereitung

So titelte die Werbung 1958 und eine Schönheit ist auch das Blaupunkt Virginia 2430. Vor allem haben mir die außergewöhnlichen Tasten gefallen, die sind mit Fingermulden versehen und laden daher zum schalten ein!

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

das Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Das Radio erwarb ich günstig bei einer Sammlungsauflösung in Kassel.

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

ganz gut erhalten

Leider besitzt die linke Hochtonabdeckung eine kleine Abplatzung.

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

auf den ersten Blick: alles komplett!

Auch der Schaltplan ist noch vorhanden, er befindet sich unter dem Chassis.

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Die überholung gestaltete sich einfach, es gab keine Hürden, ein dankbares Objekt. Leider war bei meinem der UKW-Tuner defekt, dem konnte man nicht mehr auf die Sprünge helfen. Ich fand ein Schlachtchassis im Onlineauktionshaus und konnte ihn damit fertigstellen. Es spielt schön laut und kräftig!

 

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Blaupunkt Virginia 2430

Videolink:
Blaupunkt Kinowerbung aus den 30er Jahren

Technische Daten:

Produktionsjahr: 1957 und 1958
7 Röhren: ECC85, ECH81, 2x EF89, EM80, EABC80, EL84
6 AM-Kreise + 12 FM-Kreise
3 Lautsprecher mit 6Watt Ausgangsleistung
Gehäuseabmessungen (BHT): 60 x 40 x 28 cm

Hier der Schaltplan, der auf der Bodenplatte klebte Download als pdf

5 Antworten auf Wo Schönheit ist … ist auch Blaupunkt.

  • Hello. I enjoyed visiting your website, but do not speak German. However, I do have many 1950’s German radios in my vast collection, including the Blaupunkt 2430 „Virginia“. The only main problem is that the switch button marked „F-ANT“does not operate, the linkage seems to have parted with the metal behind the button and the switch slider. Can any one please give details on how I can repair the links on this switch. Do I have to remove all the wiring and parts and the switch bank from the chassis?
    I have repaired the scale lamp holder and made it much safer by bolting the new centre terminal to the holder!
    Cheers
    Mike

  • Diogenes

    Good evening Mr. Mike Horne.
    .
    Welcome and Thanks for Your Visit here.
    .
    My English is not very propper, sorry for that; but I’ll try my best.
    .
    Yes, to make a good Repair on this problem, You have to remove the whole wiring and parts and the complete switch-board. After this terrible „Trip“ You can still not be sure to really solve this mechanical problem.
    .
    This is a horrible work; as for me, I wouldnt do it again. I’ve passed through that nasty thing in the late sixties, during my education, (Radio- & TV-Technician).
    .
    This problem is a small problem, its only the „Ferrit-Antenne“. Nothing serious.
    So, try to find some „Improvisation“ (patchwork ??).
    .
    I’m aware, that this answer will not really satisfy You, but I know, were I’m talking about.
    .
    Well, if You really want it perfect, than You have to pass throug that „Thriller“…
    .
    Thanks again, and good luck for Your operation.
    .
    I would be very happy about a respond.
    .
    “ THE VALVE IS DEAD; LONG LIVE THE VALVE ! “
    .
    Diogenes

  • Hi Diogenes. Many thanks for your reply, most kind of you. You have really good use of the English language, well I could understand your reply (I could not even try to write to you in German).
    My hobby is based on what my (now late) father did as his employment in the 1950’s/early 1960’s, radio and television servicing. The trouble was that when the television rental market collapsed, then so did the small companies that he worked for.
    I will try removing the complete switch bank from the chassis (making careful notes of the wiring and components), the trouble is that the schematic that I have for this radio is very basic and does not incorporate top and under chassis plan views.
    My collection includes other German radios (as well as my U.K radios)
    Braun 99UKW
    Telefunken Andante
    Telefunken Dacapo
    Grundig 97
    and a few others including the former GDR Saalburg 5170C
    Kind regards
    Mike (Leeds, U.K)

  • Hi Diognes.
    I tried to take the switch board out by removing the wiring, only to find that the F/ANT switch can not be repaired, so I am going to short out certain contacts on that switch that it will work on ferrite aerial permanently.
    At present, I am experiencing difficulty with the wiring to the UKW switch, terminals (A) 4, 5, 7, & 8 as to which wire is connected to. The schematic illustrates pin 4 goes to chassis, but there are wires going to transformer L719 near the EF89 (first tube) going to 4 & 5 terminals. A shame that the manual does not show this in drawings. Can you send me some photographs of the wiring under chassis, please? I have asked others about this (just in case they can not help).

    The metal rectifier requires replacing (low voltage), which I will do using a silicon bridge and resistor.
    Kind regards
    Mike, Leeds, U.K

    • Diogenes

      Good Afternoon Mike Horne,

      it’s a long Time ago ! You’re welcome !

      Sorry, that my Reply comes so late, but I had a Computer-Fault, and I could’nt operate with it.

      Yes, The Schwitch-Manual is troublesome; I’ve told You already….

      Your Idea, to bridge the original switches, can be a solution, and after that still there is a way to connect an external Antenna (adviseable !).

      For that I have to study the curcuit-diagramm. Then I can create some „trickish“ plan to realize that; its not a difficult thing.

      For the „FM-Wiring“ I can not help. I have no Foto from this Under-Wiring.

      A small Critisism: You should have make a Foto from the Switch-Board BEFORE removing the Wires…

      Anyway, it is now, as it is. You can ask TILO, if he would like to make some Foto of his own Radio –> Inside. Be aware: This is also some Work.

      At least: To replace the old „Selen-Rectifier“ with a „Silizium-Bridge“ is the only fruitful Way. There should be TWO Resistors attached:

      Resistor 1.) Ceramik-Resistor 5 ohm/10 Watt in the AC-Line…
      Resistor 2.) Ceramik-Resistor between 22 …. 100 ohm/10 Watt in the DC-Line, between the PLUS of the Rectifier and the LOAD-CAPACITOR (50µF).

      To find out the right Resistor You have to make some experiments.

      FIRST OF ALL:
      ___________________

      1.) Make sure, that the Valves are in a good condition, especially the EL84, the EABC80 and the MAGIC-EYE. (Because of the Power-Consumption.)

      2.) Cut the original-Rectifier, find a place to fix the new „Silicium-Type“ together with the first Resistor (5 ohm/10Watt) in the AC-Line, add the second Resistor by fixing 100 ohm/10 Watt (–> Loading-Capacitor 50µF).

      3.) Switch the Radio ON, search for a very strong FM-Station, make a good Volume to hear the Sound loud and clear.

      4.) Mesure the DC-Voltage at the ANODE of the EL84 and compare with Datas in the Curcuit-Diagramm. If the Voltage is to low, turn it off, replace the Resistor to the next lower Ohms, like 91ohms etc, and so on, till You arrive the correct Resistor by the correct Voltage. –> As lower the Resistor, as higher the Voltage. For further Check, test the Voltage at the second Capacitor (Sieb-Kondensator, 50µF) and make a Compromise between this two mesurements.

      It will be always a Compromise, but when You are carefully doing it, it will never be any problem and the Radio will work fine.

      So, this is it for a while; I’m tired now from writing…

      I hope, I could help You a little bit and close here, till I hear from You.

      Greetings from Germany,
      Diogenes

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